![]() ![]() In my case, about 4 inches of this tube broke off near the bottom, and this somehow allowed the sensor to detect a low condition when there was none. This hose goes into a tube inside of the tank, and the tube goes to the vary bottom of the tank. If you look at the tank, there is a small (about 10mm diameter) hose that connects at the top of the tank. When the car cooled enough to check the level, it was always full (at the KALT line on the side of the tank. The manner of breakage allowed a false low coolant condition to exist during some point in the engine operations. If the light waits to come on until you park the car, then my experience with this is that the expansion tank (the tank with the radiator cap on it) was broken internally. Open the hood and look at the radiator cap, follow the tank straight down to the frame rail, this is the site of the coolant level sensor. If the message displays as soon as you turn the key on, then look to the coolant level sensor as the fault. Is there something else that could cause this or should I just replace the sensor? If I should replace the sensor, is it a hard task to do? Thank you very much.ĭoes it report Low as soon as you turn the key on, or does it wait until you turn the engine off? I filled it to the top just to make sure and it still says its low. The coolant level sensor says that it is low, but when I checked it, it was filled about halfway. Sorry in advance for my little knowledge of cars/repairs as this is my first car and I just want to make sure I don't mess any part of it up. He had also already invested a lot into this car, so hopefully it works well for a while after this is figured out:p Also, its not full to the brim, just to the line on the side of it. It just doesn't say anything about changing the sensor. The cap is good so thats good When I bought the car (from a family friend), he already had a Bentley manual, so I've been reading that a lot. We can help you with stuff.Īgain, let us know about that cap, we can get through the sensor, and discuss the rest of the car.Īgain, let us know about that cap, we can get through the sensor, and discuss the rest of the car.Alright. You will NOT experience anything that has not already been experienced by MANY others. If you plan on learning auto repairs with this car, it's not an old 6 cylinder Chevy !!! BUY a BENTLEY MANUAL. Once they are sorted out, E36s just sort of work. The ONLY way to avoid then is investing some money in preventive maintenance and parts replacements BEFORE they fail. Since this is your first car, E36 325s and 328s have some real issues that occur to ALL of them sooner than later. Otherwise BIG $$$$$$$$$$$$$$ when it overheats. Assuming the cap is not broken, for now take care of the sensor and PROPERLY bleed the system. what would you prefer as a good reservoir? I know anything from BMW dealers is good, but is there anything else? if not, I'm fine with the BMW dealer.įirst things first - inspect the reservoir cap and let us know. ANY reservoir under about $70 will be junk. ![]() Unless you KNOW it is fairly new, REPLACE IT and the cap. clamp the hose, remove the little upper hose (careful not break the fitting on the reservoir next, and remove the reservoir. If there is ONE rubber o-ring, the bottom of the cap is broken and the lower o-ring and its lower ring land is down in the reservoir. (This is a "hold your mouth right" moment.) ALSO, and this is really important - inspect the cap. ![]() The key to being successful is making sure the slide on the new sensor does NOT touch the inside of the reservoir. Unplug the sensor, remove it, and wipe off yourself and the floor. CLAMP THAT HOSE where it enters the left side of the shroud. It routes INTO the shroud and below the fan, and over top the bottom of the reservoir. There is a 1" hoes the leaves the left side of the block, runs under the airbox, and then turns towards the fan shroud. It is actually rather simple to do the reservoir without dumping a lot of fluid. ![]()
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